"FHRUS" A site dedicated to promoting the hobby of raising Flowerhorns and other Aquatic Pets. "Finding Answers Together" While Building a Wonderful Family within a Fish Community One person at a Time!!!
Welcome Guest [Log In] [Register]
We hope you enjoy your visit here at FHRUS.


You're currently viewing our forum as a guest. This means you are limited to certain areas of the board and there are some features you can't use. If you join our community, you'll be able to access member-only sections, and use many member-only features such as customizing your profile, sending personal messages, and voting in polls. Registration is simple, fast, and completely free.


Join our community!


If you're already a member please log in to your account to access all of our features:

Username:   Password:
Add Reply
Fish Talk; - A Beginer's Guide
Topic Started: Apr 13 2007, 05:33 AM (20,219 Views)
Mentat
Member Avatar
"Evil One"
 *   *   *   *   *   *   *   *   *   *   *   *  
Hello all members! A recent event with one tank in my place got me thinking about a simple way to help out newbies with FH fishkeeping. So kind of decided to try and consolidate info floating all over Forum in many threads. I know there is a search function, but if a newbie can read these little tips and learn from them, it would prevent a few problems and sick or dead fish.

My job will be to collect info, take inputs, etc., something like an editor. As document editor, reserve the right to modify inputs so they better fit document style and format. Your tip idea and due credits will not be changed you da man! .

2. Members can provide inputs via posts on thread. Once your input is added to main topic (with credit to you at end) it will become part of the main list. Please keep input to one liners, a long explanation is not needed or desired (remember the KISS principle thumbs up ). If you submit a tip and it does not get incorporated please!!! be patient. Maybe I have not seen yet no no no ; or will go to future section (bringing them on-line as time permits) grinning . If posts and inputs "disappear" that's cool! and means it was incorporated into document or I'm cleaning up thread thumbs up . Also, please!!! keep comments and questions not pertaining to "Fish Talk" inputs or ideas out of this thread and use other FHRUS forum sections for that its a beautiful thang !


3. thank you Vanz for flagging thread you're the best ! Plan is to keep as a live document, allways evolving and growing as our knowledge grows. Well, this should get us started. Hopefully some more members will add to list its a beautiful thang . My special thank you to all members that have provided inputs and positive feedback; and to those that will do so in the future you rock!! .
Edited by Mentat, Sep 17 2011, 10:23 AM.
In dwelling, live close to the ground. In thinking, keep it simple. In conflict, be fair and generous. In governing, don't control. In work, do what you enjoy. In family life, be completely present. - Tao Te Ching
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Mentat
Member Avatar
"Evil One"
 *   *   *   *   *   *   *   *   *   *   *   *  
FISH TALK

Normal Behaviors

- Somersaults, figure 8s, etc. are signs of stimuli from the bringer of food, mate in the tank, change from previous dull/static state to turning your tank lights on greeting your fish, fresh water change, new decor, added more swimming room, etc. (Lucky).

- Your fish will beg for food using all antics (wagging tail, hitting cover, splashing water, etc.). Ignore and do not reward with food any unwanted behaviors, or stand-by for more of it (Mentat).

- A perceived interest item (or something that worries fish) will be stared at and then fish will look at you and go back to item; just like a dog points stuff to you (Mentat).

- Gravel digging and moving rocks indicates they are decorating their living space or making room for breeding nest (NiceFishHomie).

- Aggressive gravel or item biting and spitting could indicate FH is angry about something and/or throwing a tantrum (Wildimage).

Warning Behaviors

- Fish will dart around especially if there is a problem with water quality; such as a pH drop. Also, they will get spooked from light change & movement; especially when placed in lower level tanks (Lucky).

- When fish are stressed or weak they become dark so the can better hide from predators or confrontation (Lucky).

- Fish darkens in color and stays hidden or in a corner indicates Acute Stress (Lucky).

- Acute Stress can be corrected by adding 3-5 smaller non-dominant cichlids to: develop competition among the fish; stimulate FH appetite; and help FH gain Alpha status (Lucky).

- Fish that likes to hide by the filter or behind things are indication that they are not compatible in that tank due to a bigger and more aggressive fish around (NiceFishHomie).

- Fish that stays close to heater could signal problem with heater temperature control or heated water is not circulating properly in tank (Wildimage & Mentat).

- Hard breathing means that there is not enough oxygen in the water because the temperature is too high or the tank is overcrowded with other fish sharing the same oxygen (NiceFishHomie).

- FH scratching head frequently could mean some kind of irritation. Do check water parameters to ensure pH and nitrates are OK. Also check FH for any signs of parasites or wounds and treat accordingly (Mentat).

Problem Behaviors

- Darting around chronically can be a sign of a disease starting (Lucky).

- FH that 'spaz' and swim in tight circles like helicopter's blades are showing the onset of being stunted (Lucky).

- Curled gills can result from hyperventilation due to limited swimming space in a small tank and associated low oxygen levels (Mentat).

- Fish that stop eating (without tank move or mating) is a sign of disease (NiceFishHomie).

- Fish being constantly beaten or out competed for food by other fish; living in high traffic areas; being moved around too much; in continous poor water quality; or suffering long-term disease (i.e. internal infection) can develop Chronic Stress (Lucky).

- When a fish suddenly turns black, it could be due to a circulatory problem (blocked or damaged artery or vein). Even if fish eats well and is healthy otherwise, dark areas may remain until the fish die. Body massages to fish may ease circulatory condition; but it won't recover 100% (Sonny).

Physiological Observations and/or Signs

- Non-permanent vertical dark bars or patterns on body is an indication of stress; or they are in heat for mating (NiceFishHomie).

- Loss of normal coloration (or darker colors on body and or fins) may indicate: onset of fading (color change); stress; deficient water quality; spawning mode; lighting or decor change; diet change and/or improper diet (Paintsn).

- When a FH finds itself in top Alpha ranking; healing time speeds up fast (Lucky).

- Head (kok) shrinking can indicate water condition changes, stress, and/or breeding (Paintsn).

- Normally; FH eyes change from red to yellow while sleeping (Bastardfish).

- Parrot Fish does a "reverse fade" and fins turns black (AKA Black Fin Disease) to indicate bad water quality (NiceFishHomie).

- A fish that eats well but does not gain weight and has a permanently bloated belly could be suffering from intestinal worms (Mentat).

- Fish with white or clear stringy poop (excrement) trailing from anus can have a bacterial intestinal problem and/or parasites (i.e. Hole in the Head "HITH" or Hexamita disease)(NiceFishHomie).

- Fish with their anus sticking out is a sign of intestinal problem (like obstruction) and/or a case of hernia disease (NiceFishHomie).

- Fish with a pimple coming directly out of skin is most likely a bacterial infection; if discharge is coming out of cloaca (anal pore) it is probably a protozoa parasite infection (Koliveira).

The Water

- "Distilled Water" is water that has been boiled to evaporation (steam) and then condensed back into water several times until only pure water remains. Good for misting, cleaning glass, etc.; but not for fish. Must add missing salts (R/O Right or similar) to use in FH tanks (Mentat).

- "Reverse Osmosis Water (R/O)" is water filtered from dissolved solids. Used mostly to mix with saltwater mix for reef tanks. Need to be treated (same as distilled) before using in FH tank (Mentat).

- "Purified Water" is water filtered and with minerals added for improved human taste. Might lack normal dissolved salts that fish need need (Mentat).

- "Dionized Water" - is water removed of salts by an ionic process that does not remove organics like bacteria. Because of that it's filtered too (Mentat).

- "Spring Water" is water drawn from an aquifer or "clean" mountain springs. In some localities with lax water quality laws or enforcement, this could just be expensive bottled tap water (Mentat).

- "Mineral Water" is water meeting a stricter European purity standard than "Spring Water" (Mentat).

- "Tap Water" is whatever liquid comes out of your faucets. Quality varies with locality and seasons. Can be aerated for 48 hours to remove chlorine, but that will not get rid of chloramines. Will also have heavy metals (lead, iron, copper) from tanks and pipes. Use an instant water conditioner that gets rid of all of the above (Mentat).

- "Well Water" if safe for drinking and tested regularly should be OK for fish. Might have lot of extra dissolved salts and metals in it (Mentat).

- Take care of the water and it will take care of your fish (Mentat).

- Matching replacement water parameters to the tank's water as closely as possible (temperature, pH, salt) will prevent FH stress signs like laying on side or head going down after a water change (Mentat).

- ZZ FH are not demanding with regards to pH values, but extremes below 6.4 and above 8 should be avoided. A neutral pH (7.0) will allow for fluctuations either way (Mentat).

- Kamfa flourish in very stable water; buffering pH with crushed coral (to max 8.0) will maintain stable Ca, Mg, and K levels (Poseidon).

- Adding powdered buffers directly into tank can cause quick drastic changes in water quality and are not so good for FH (Poseidon).

- Its best not to use any chemicals to alter the pH of the water. Coral chips (raises) and driftwood (lowers) can be used in limit (Miss Sunshine).

- Pre-mixed (with conditioners & buffers) water aged for at least 48 hours is better for Kamfa aquarium water changes. Treating tap water and using immediately can cause stress and reduce kok size (Mentat).

- Any pH changes of more than 0.2 units per day will stress and/or harm your fish (pH scale is logarithmic and every unit = a 10X change). Drastic pH changes can kill your fish (Mentat).

- In localities with "Hard Water;" water changes replace and help maintain the natural water buffering capacity to stabilize pH (Mentat).

- In localities with very soft water (low dissolved Calcium & Magnesium salts) adding 2 tablespoons of Aragonite (crushed coral) per 5 gal. of water (to substrate or filter media) will help buffer water to neutral pH (Mentat).

- Most Kamfa improve when kept in buffered water to alkaline pH (around 7.6). Still, too high PH can darken your fish (Jett).

The Tank

- The FH needs space to swim and build up the overall body structure in line with his head growth (Mystique @ Fish-Hub).

- Tank should be a minimum of 3 times the adult fish length; and as deep as fish is long so he can turn around (Jett & Mentat).

- Housing FH in small areas can lead to stunting, gill curling, atrophied muscle tissues and weak bone structures. All this can compromise fish health and even lead to premature death (i.e. broken backs) (Mentat).

- When housing FH in a divided tank; it should be large enough so that every partition meets each fish requirement and the whole volume/filter system can handle the total fish bio-load (Mentat).

- Partition FH when they are about 2-3 in. until 4-5 in. long; then move them to individual tank for best result (Meng).

- Tall tanks (20-25 in. and up) are the best option for FH that like to do acrobatics (rolls, figure 8s, etc.) (Lucky & Mentat).

- Kamfa show better in tank with black background (Poseidon)

- Kamfa tanks should be well lit with dual freshwater type bulbs: one white (around 6,700K) and one pink (full spectrum like "Colormax") fixtures (Poseidon & Mentat).

- Most metallic pearls show well under saltwater type blue "actinic" lights. Try mixing with either a white or pink bulb and use the best combo (Mentat).

- Kamfa should be stress free and feeding before adding a KKP to tank (if he looks bored and likes the company). Kamfa should be bigger than KKP (Poseidon).

The Food

- Pellets are the best staple you can feed to your fish. A good diet is to use two kinds of pellets on a regular basis; one being a normal high protein based and the other a good color enhancing formula (Bastardfish).

- Fish food stored in a hot and humid area (or manipulated with wet fingers) may be contaminated by fungi, become rancid, and loose vitamin content. Some molds such as Aspergillus can produce aflatoxins toxic to fish, specially fry (Mentat).

- The natural way of bringing out the color of your fish is giving it a wide variety of food (shrimps, krill, blood worms, beef heart, crickets, and vegetables like peeled peas and corn (Vanz).

- By alternating a small amount of pellet, then feeding a high protein food (i.e. shrimp or bloodworm) followed with another small dose of pellets you can increase the benefit of high protein treat (AJB).

- Feeding fish, black worms, and other live aquatic feeders is the fastest way to introduce disease and parasites in your tanks (Evil One).

- Don't feed last 2 hours before lights-out. Digestion process and food absorption is compromised from the lack of activity. Also, fish can't rest well if stomach is digesting (Vanz & Mentat).

- Don't feed right after a water change. If skip-feeding a day each week, skip day after water change (Vanz & Mentat).

- Underfeeding or overfeeding when young can result in permanently pinched or bloated bellies respectively (Shevagol & Mentat).

- Overfeeding will augment decomposing organic matter in water. End result will be increased production of: Ammonia; Nitrites; Nitrates; and CO2 (Mentat).

- Overfeeding can make a fish fat and eventually shorten it's lifespan (NiceFishHomie).

- Power feeding or pumping is when owner raises temperature to increase metabolism and then feeds all the food the FH will consume multiple times a day. Some also increase the photo period to keep FH awake and feed even more (Mentat).

- Power feeding can result in fast grow rates with weaker bone structures. This could increase probability of injuries like broken backs (Vanz).

- Fish that loose interest and/or stop eating for a few days after a tank move, or during mating causes worry; but is normal (Evil One).

- Food treats should be used sparingly. If FH gorges out with a treat he likes; could respond with less enthusiasm to his staple pellets on following feedings (Wildimage).

- Do not feed your FH a main staple of bloodworms or shrimp. Those are for treats or as fillers after feeding pellets (Lilrudy).

- My secret food is marine veggie pellets like Oceans Nutrition's "Formula 2" (Lilrudy).

- My feeding schedule is 4 days veggie pellets; 3 days FH enhancer pellets; 1-2 days none; NLS Cichlid or Thera+ pellets 1-2 days; and repeat (Lilrudy).

Medications

- All medications should be stored in a cool dark place. When medicating; the tank lights should be turned off because many medications decompose faster in the presence of light (Mentat).

- Some medications (i.e. Melafix & antibiotics) are available in different concentrations that can vary by a factor of 10! Always read the label to ensure using the right dosage (Mentat).

- Same as with humans, antibiotics should be used for the full recommended dosage period. Not completing treatment could result in antibiotic resistant pathogen strains (Mentat).

- Antibiotics and some other medications can negatively affect performance of biological filter. Testing both ammonia and nitrite levels during their use and re-dosing with bacteria cultures following water change after treatment ends, is recommended (Mentat).

Breeding

- Breeder should have a clear idea of what is the objective. Breeding large number of fish or breeding to try and improve colors and appearance are different goals; with different parental selection (Mentat).

- Breeder fish quality is directly proportional to fry quality! Crappy genes in... crappier genes out (Mentat).

- Normally, the breeder will not have access to fish genetic background. Selecting and pairing parents of the highest quality physical shapes and colors and repeating process with future generations has worked in the past and functions (Mentat).

- If genetic background is available; an uglier female with superior quality brothers is a better choice than a nicer female with inferior brothers (Mentat).

- Once you get desired results or a random attractive or interesting fish your effort (and lessons learned) should go to establishing the bloodline (Mentat).

- Line inbreeding (fry x parent or brother x sister) can sometimes be used to strengthen a desired trait. However, inbreeding for 4 & 5 generations have resulted in lower fertility and morphological deformities in fish (Mentat).

- FH breeding success can be measured by just a few great fish per batch. Difficulty is selecting the right keeper/s among hundreds of fry (Mentat).

- Patience and perseverance is a mandatory requirement! Can't imagine or afford breeding large and sometimes slow to mature hybrids for 9 or more generations? Do yourself a favor and use your resources to support other breeder's efforts and buy their nice fish (Mentat).

- Usually; Red Eyes = Fertile, Yellow Eyes = Maybe Fertile, and White Eyes = Infertile (Wildimage).

- Fish with dropped (exposed) vent tube and is constantly rubbing the ground or surrounds is a sign of breeding (Paintsn).

- Fish goes near his bowl, does a head stand, flips backwards and swims away in reverse indicates desire to have a female to mate (Wildimage/Sonny).

- Breeding males should be at least 9 months old (Meng).

- If space allows; sometimes adding a 3rd "dither" fish It's not fair can help a pair bond (Mentat).

- Adding hiding areas for a smaller female (clay flower pots or a divider with a hole only she can get trough) can protect her from an aggressive larger male (Mentat).

- Avoid turning lights on and off with new pairs; as a sudden change of lighting could cause fish to "look different" and they will fight more (Meng).

- Allowing a pair to raise a fry batch strengthens their bond; while removing eggs or fry and leaving them together could start a bad fight (Mentat).

- When fanning female acts very aggressive toward male is time to move him out before either a fight breaks out; or stress replaces parental instinct and they eat eggs (Mentat).

- Keeping breeders apart until female is ready to lay eggs and separating them (and their eggs) as soon as breeding is over; is a "commercially" proven method to raise large volumes of fry (Mentat).

- King Kamfa males are not fertile; we breed KML with KK or Synspilum females (Mickkamfa).

- Fry can be fed gut loaded newly hatched brine shrimp, frozen daphnia, cyclops, micro-pellets; and then increase food size as they grow. FH fry are large so they do not need something as small as rotifers (Mentat).

- Feed fry as many times a day as you can (at least 4-6 but 10-12 if possible) with an amount of food they will consume in 5 minutes or less (Mentat).

The Hobby

- FHRUS is a place to relax and enjoy sharing our common love for FH! To me; harmony among members is the priority (Mentat).

- Choose your fish because you like them in the present and dream of their future... then provide the best care to make those dreams happen (Mentat).

- Personally my view is we don't care about what others say. Important is a fish was chosen by us and we bought it because we like it. How the fish eventually turns out is not up to the fish; it's how the owner gives it's time and care to it (SnyperY @ Fish-Hub).

- Those willing to post fish for comment have to mentally prepare for both positive and negative posts. Individual members have their own view and appreciation when looking at fish; so don't get mad over what other people write (SnyperY @ Fish-Hub).

- When engaged for too long; high prices, chemical fry sterilization, and other breeder's anti-competition activities eventually cause frustration and loss of interest on a strain (Mentat).

- Most every hobbyist wants to know what is their FH strain. The truth is that due to breeders inter-strain crossing; at the present there are few FH representing pure strains (Mentat).

- Like everything else; FH prices are set by the laws of supply and demand. Invest your money wisely by learning all you can about FH and buying a healthy active fish that pleases your Heart (Mentat)!

- Last and most important, regardless if you consider FH pets or not, they are living creatures. Treating them with care and respect will directly reflect upon their quality of life and yours (Mentat)!

Never Do This!

- Buy FH on an impulse whim (Mentat).

- Float and "bring up to temp" a shipped FH bag with out neutralizing ammonia or slowly replacing shipment water with tank water first (Mentat).

- Feed or turn lights on a new FH for 48 hours after release (Mentat).

- Add new fish to tank or system with shared filtration (i.e. sump) with out quarantine first (Mentat).

- Add new fish to un-cycled tank (Mentat).

- Feed within 2 hours of lights out (Mentat).

- Skip water changes (Mentat).

- Change large volumes of water with pH differing more than 0.2 units (Mentat).

- Use any cleaning agents with aquarium equipment or rinse filtering material in untreated tap water (Mentat).

- Keep large fish in small tanks or divided spaces (Mentat).

- Use dividers that fail to reach from bottom to glass cover or are not well held in place (Mentat).

- Divide tank into small sections where length is less than 3X that of fish (Mentat).

- Underfeed fry or growing juveniles (Mentat).

- Take vacation and leave tanks in care of inexperienced person (Mentat).

- Overmedicate, use wrong medication, mix medications (unless known compatible), use wrong doses, or overextend treatments (Mentat).
Edited by Mentat, Dec 6 2011, 01:48 PM.
In dwelling, live close to the ground. In thinking, keep it simple. In conflict, be fair and generous. In governing, don't control. In work, do what you enjoy. In family life, be completely present. - Tao Te Ching
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Wildimage
Member Avatar
*Bionic Biker Chickyta*
 *   *   *   *   *   *   *   *   *   *   *   *  
Great update Mentat thumbs up you rock!! thank you


.
-Lynda ;)

"Provehito in Altum" = "Launch forth into the deep"

***TEAM R US***

***UNITED WE STAND STRONG & TOGETHER ANYTHING IS POSSIBE***


Posted Image

Posted Image

The secret of health for both mind and body, is not to mourn for the past, worry about the future, or anticipate troubles, but to live in the present moment wisely and earnestly. Live each moment stress free & in harmony ...
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Panda831
1" Frys
 *   *   *  
Good Info
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Kokhump
Zygotes
Very Very Good.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
shevagol
Member Avatar
SRT FaNaTiC & CoNnOiSsEuR
 *   *   *   *   *   *   *   *   *   *   *   *  
Great thread... very informative and useful for beginners and experienced alike.

Thanks for putting this together!
Posted Image Posted Image Posted Image

Some people are so far behind in the race that they actually think they're leading.......
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
dimez562
Member Avatar
5" Juvies
 *   *   *   *   *   *   *  
this is great!! love it.
TEAM R'US.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
RADMAN
1" Frys
 *   *   *  
Thanks for the info mentat! Very useful!!!
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
snakeskin101010
Member Avatar
Zygotes
 *   *  
nice information !
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Mentat
Member Avatar
"Evil One"
 *   *   *   *   *   *   *   *   *   *   *   *  
Just updated "Fish Talk" and answered all outstanding questions. Also, found out that I can split posts! Did a couple for testing and because subject was not related to FH (i.e. Arowana). Will try to add more material during this week; my new FH are chatty and I'm learning a lot grinning !
In dwelling, live close to the ground. In thinking, keep it simple. In conflict, be fair and generous. In governing, don't control. In work, do what you enjoy. In family life, be completely present. - Tao Te Ching
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
AquaticsMD
1" Frys
 *   *   *  
very good info!!!
Pains...the weakness leaving the body!!!
!!! Sempre Fidelis !!!
www.AquaticsMD.com
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
sof sofi
Zygotes
 *  
thanks friend 10/10
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
FlowerHornRus
Member Avatar
Administrator
 *   *   *   *   *   *   *   *   *   *   *   *  
keep up the Marvelous work bro Mentat.. I believe you should gain reward!!

also hope many more will add to the beautiful list you built



Posted Image




It takes 36 muscles to make a FROWN... crying
But it ONLY takes ONE FISH to make a Smile!!!
grinning







Online Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Red Dragon
Zygotes
 *  
Very informative thank you
Edited by Red Dragon, Dec 5 2011, 07:00 AM.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
ERIC 9.9
1" Frys
 *   *   *  
thizz is some real good info right here .
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Mentat
Member Avatar
"Evil One"
 *   *   *   *   *   *   *   *   *   *   *   *  
thank you for comments! Updated and created new section of things we should never do cool guy .
In dwelling, live close to the ground. In thinking, keep it simple. In conflict, be fair and generous. In governing, don't control. In work, do what you enjoy. In family life, be completely present. - Tao Te Ching
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
petah
Member Avatar
FHRUS
 *   *   *   *   *   *   *   *   *   *   *   *  
Very useful information... Thanks Carlos you da man!
Team R'US



feel free to add me on Facebook.
https://www.facebook.com/petah.fhrus
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Mysticsai
Zygotes
 *   *  
Thank U friend for ur valuable inputs. I feel if you could also give some suggestions
for treating various common diseases with medicine names as you did to me will be
more helpful for beginners like me. Also, i have posted the latest photos of my FH
after nearly six months. Need your valuable comment on the same. Thanx
When I hear someone say "life is hard"
I am tempted to ask "compared to what"
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Mentat
Member Avatar
"Evil One"
 *   *   *   *   *   *   *   *   *   *   *   *  
Mysticsai
Dec 11 2011, 09:23 AM
Thank U friend for ur valuable inputs. I feel if you could also give some suggestions
for treating various common diseases with medicine names as you did to me will be
more helpful for beginners like me. Also, i have posted the latest photos of my FH
after nearly six months. Need your valuable comment on the same. Thanx
thank you and Bro Petah for posts. Will try to come up with something for TXs. Issue is, don't want to change short concise format of Fish Talk NO!! . Truth is my symptom/treatment write-ups tend to get wordy grinning .
In dwelling, live close to the ground. In thinking, keep it simple. In conflict, be fair and generous. In governing, don't control. In work, do what you enjoy. In family life, be completely present. - Tao Te Ching
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
bringo1990
Zygotes
 *   *  
thkns for info so usefully
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
changythao
Zygotes
 *   *  
usefull info thanks
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
chuebarb
Zygotes
 *  
so mmuuch usefull info ty
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
hmuliss91
Zygotes
 *  
very useful info. thanks you
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
CrazyCichlids
Member Avatar
Zygotes
 *  
Good Info Indeed
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
orchidams
Zygotes
 *  
Very Need Info. Thankyou.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
1 user reading this topic (1 Guest and 0 Anonymous)
DealsFor.me - The best sales, coupons, and discounts for you
Go to Next Page
« Previous Topic · Newbie Corners · Next Topic »
Add Reply

FHRUS Donation Box


Google

GS/GO SOLD HERE! Click RUS LOGO


 photo sumobanner2rf2_zpsspafktw1.gif


Vote For FHRUS!!
Aquariumrank.com - Ranking the Top Aquarium Sites on the Internet