| We hope you enjoy your visit here at FHRUS. You're currently viewing our forum as a guest. This means you are limited to certain areas of the board and there are some features you can't use. If you join our community, you'll be able to access member-only sections, and use many member-only features such as customizing your profile, sending personal messages, and voting in polls. Registration is simple, fast, and completely free. Join our community! If you're already a member please log in to your account to access all of our features: |
| CAn someone give tips on how to take care of eggs; from wen they hatch till swimming freely | |
|---|---|
| Topic Started: Jun 5 2008, 05:51 PM (138 Views) | |
| aznvibo106 | Jun 5 2008, 05:51 PM Post #1 |
|
1" Frys
  ![]](http://209.85.122.87/static/1/pip_r.png)
|
PLZ this tip wuold help out alot |
 |
 
|
| Valentine | Jun 6 2008, 12:22 AM Post #2 |
5" Juvies
|
Have a 10 gallon tank ready. Once your pair is done fertilizing the eggs, transfer the eggs to a 10 gallon tank and use the same water from the main tank to fill up the 10 gallon tank. Use anti-fungal or methylene blue like other people to prevent any bacterial, parasitic, or fungal invasion of your eggs. Put a heater in the 10 gallon tank with the same temp as the main tank and have a sponge filter running. Cover the tank and buy a small light bulb light (this you can buy at Home Depot for about $10). Leave the light 24/7 and wait till you see black dots. Black dots mean fertilized eggs and white eggs mean unfertilized eggs. After they start moving (wiggler stage), take the rest of the eggs out by removing your clay pot that the eggs were on. If you can, siphon the bad eggs out to prevent infections to the wigglers. Then as they get older, after 2 weeks or so, start a brine shrimp hatchery and feed it at least 3 times a day. You'll see that they grow really fast with brine shrimp. Good luck! |
| No Pain, No Gain. | |
|
|
| Flowerhornrus | Jun 6 2008, 01:03 AM Post #3 |
Administrator
|
me i wouldnt recommend moving the eggs.. unless you really have to.. but me..after i see the male is done with the fertilization.. usually within 3-6 hours ..i would take the male out and just leave the female.. but if i see her starting to eat them.. i would take both parents out..this is only to try to make sure that the eggs wont be tampered with.. but then again every parents are different..some will care for the eggs..and others wont.. dont do any water changes and do not change any water settings like temps and so forth .. just wait a few days to see if they are fertile.. if parents are in with the eggs.. i would feed them as much as i can..for they may get hungry and eat the eggs. usually within the end of the second day of male fertilizing the eggs you will see black spots.. which are eyeballs in the eggs if they are fertile.. within the 3-4th day.. they more likely will hatch.. and for the first 1-2 or 3 days.. i would not feed them.. for they will feast from their egg yolks.. after that.. you could feed them hatched brine shrimps or crushed pellets.. before the week is over.. they should all be free swimming 
|
  It takes 36 muscles to make a FROWN...  But it ONLY takes ONE FISH to make a Smile!!! 
| |
|
|
|
| aznvibo106 | Jun 7 2008, 03:33 AM Post #4 |
|
1" Frys
|
well done both bro valentine and van give me really great tips on this topic. i gue i should get ready to move on breeding mode 
|
|
|
|
| NiceFishHomie | Jun 7 2008, 04:06 AM Post #5 |
15" 3x Champions
|
both styles mentioned so far works but i'm the lazy type so this is what I do I go buy a clear tote, big enough to put that tray of eggs in. I drill holes to the top portion of the tote and at all four sides. I clip tie an empty water 12oz water bottle through the hole I just made on both sides of tote and the tote now is a floatation device to keep the tote up. I place the whole egg and rock or clay pot into tote. I add anti fungus medication into tote and an air bubble to keep a circulation on them eggs. 3 times a day, i would put my own hand in and wave the eggs to get them poop and debris off the eggs. Before the wiggling stage takes place, i would use an air tube to suck out as much poop left in the tote as possible. A few days later and after a successful fertilization job, the wigglers are swimming together in cluster and is now fallen from the clay pot or rock and onto the tote. Do note that I put the clay pot or rocks at a tilted 45 degree angle so that them wiggles can fall off the pot and away from them bad eggs. Doing this way, you do not need an extra tank or extra heater or try to match the water up or try to match the temperature or remove the parents at this moment. i would remove the parents only if they starting to get crazy and bite each other from mass hysteria to their missing eggs. The best part is you get to control the eggs and you can count off to how many they are. If you let the parents handle the eggs, they might eat them and when it comes to wiggles, they are going to swim everywhere like under rocks and whatnot. When they are big enough like free swimmer that can swim high enough to get out of the holes in the tote, it is now time to get another tank for a transfer and in this case, u do need to match the water and the temp. To keep the parents from getting too crazy, add another clay pot and who knows, they might just want to spawn again to make up for their lost. The second time around, i usually let the parents handle them eggs. If they eat them up, no loss here for you still have the previous batch to cater to. Ever since I try this method, I have a 100% successful rate in breeding but only as long as the male is not infertile. Good luck in any method you do but don't be like me, wasting all of them batches on trail and error. |
|
|
|
| 1 user reading this topic (1 Guest and 0 Anonymous) | |
| « Previous Topic · Breeding and Spawning · Next Topic » |
7:43 PM Dec 4
